a common urban smite to rural villagers as to why they have so many children, is to say that there really isn’t that many things to do at nights out in the kampungs. of course, it makes logical sense. i know of one villager i spoke to a coupla months back who numbers her kids because she has too many. S told me that she knew of this kid back in her kampung days – when a meal call came from home, the kid would immediately drop whatever it was she was doing and sprint back home – because she has so many siblings, food would be gone if she was late.
children, to put it bluntly, at either a sign of prosperity or burden in different cultures. it is funny to think of having children as a sign of boredom.
to discover alternative kampung style nightlife, unless terribly worn out, i usually linger with my host families when i travel. perhaps it is my imposition, but it really couldn’t be possible that every night the adults retire to their love nests because there is nothing else to do.

labu valley
i was out in labu last night. besides the fruit, you probably never heard of the place. if you look at the ktm komuter routes however, you will see it. to get to labu valley nevertheless, you will need to disembark at tiroi, a station after labu, before seremban. driving here in the day time is dreadful and at night, frightening. the single main road here is frequented by heavy trucks making tracks onto very old villages. just how old? some of the villages i visited here are almost 200 years old – modernised by electricity and tap water, but still maintaining a rural industrial and agricultural lifestyle, with houses made of a combination of wood, bricks, mismatching tiles and zinc.
labu valley is a ten-year-old bistro, four kilometres from the labu turn off at seremban – and according to some of the people in the know, possibly one of the most eccentric night hangouts in the state. i have to admit, when they told me that they were bringing me to a kampung style nightlife, two contrasting images popped into my mind: a rempit den, and a shack of a cafe with coupla old kampung folks talking about opposition parties. labu valley was neither of the above. it was a brightly lit bistro glowing like a blessed thing on an unseeming shoulder of the dark road. it was not huge, but it was amply sized, with plenty of tables and chairs. it was not ala-mamak though – all the tables were covered in thin maroon tablecloths so to give the illusion of somewhat of taste. my hosts told me that the place gets really packed come 11am all the way to 3am – hours when the party really gets started.
a slightly elevated stage stands at the left corner with karaoke monitors and mikes all set up. i know what you’re thinking, its some malay jiwang version of the chinese oldies karaoke dens right? labu valley is nothing of the sort. whole families go there and everyone knows everyone else’s names. and yes, malay songs are available but the run off fan faves here are the minangkabau and english numbers. the place has a DJ – the owner’s son with grunge hairstyle. his own band plays here on saturday nights.
i was there early, surprised to hear the change up between too fast too furious, eminem and the pussycat dolls. shortly after a brief introduction to the owner of the bistro, the DJ welcomed us – over the mikes, of course, and i like, oh my god, please don’t get me to talk…!!! nothing of the sort, of course. its just a thing that the place has to get people to be comfortable with each other. judging from the announcements of other guests, i take it that the bistro has quite a coupla regulars, and he is well aware of their health and what they do. very cosy.
and so goes the night. me with my cup of milo tarik. watching the kampung folk get together. everyone knows everyone else’s names. everyone knows what everyone is doing, and their families. they joke, they tell stories, they sing, and i reckon on some nights they dance too. i reckon that it would be like some ala-p.ramlee era dances, but it would be fun.
my hosts tells me that sometimes, when the nearby villages have hometstay guests, they would sometimes bring them here, and then tak kira la if they are local ke, brits ke, japanese ke, singaporean ke, taiwanese ke, everyone would have fun and sing and have fun. the local villagers learn about their guests and what they do and the guests will share the local villagers’ stories on lifestyles. that is what i think is special about this place. this place reveals that when the day is over and everyone has let their hair down, it is actually possible to be friends with just about anyone.
and kampung life, as i discovered, ain’t as boring after all. there are the changing of the seasons, children growing up, and perhaps most importantly always new friends. there was a hopeful sense of openness from labu valley. and tho i’ve only been there once, i’m almost pretty sure they would remember me if i were to go there again, but not because i was anything outstandingly special – but because everyone is. there is always someone taking the trouble to get to know you and to welcome you and to share your stories.